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Esashi (江差) was Hokkaido’s main trading center from 17th- to 19th-century, when Japanese merchants brought herring and woods. Today the town keeps the wooden houses, shrines and traditional culture. Esashi is also the jump-on and off point for ferries to Okushiri-to.
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Assabu Uzura Onsen Shiki-no-yado ♨︎
厚沢部うずら温泉 四季の宿
13min walk from Uzura-onsen-iriguchi bus stop / 20min walk from Uzura-gakko-mae bus stop
This Western-style rural property is a good sleeping option, with indoor baths and wooden saunas filled with local hiba trees. There is an on-site restaurant that serves Chinese cuisine using local ingredients. It is about 1km east of Uzura-onsen-iriguchi bus stop.
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Gamushi Onsen Ryokan ♨︎
俄虫温泉旅館
2.5km from Assabu bus stop
About 2.5km northeast of Central Assabu is this quiet ryokan in the countryside, spacious tatami-mat rooms, with indoor and open-air onsen. The staffs will pick you up from Assabu bus stop if you call ahead.
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Ryotei Kuki ♨︎
旅庭 群来
5min walk from Ubagami-cho-Ferry-mae bus stop
Located at the gateway of Kamome-jima near Kaiyo-maru, Ryotei Kuki is Esashi’s most luxury and eco-friendly ryokan. All the spacious suites have its own private baths. Dinner is a creative kaiseki affair featuring delicacies from local farms and fishing ports.