Kaminokuni (上ノ国町) is said that Hokkaido’s first Japanese settlement dates back to 1189. Takeda Nobuhiro, the first lord of the Matsumae clan, ruled here as a trading post in the 15th and 16th centuries. Kaminokuni is worth stepping off the bus between Esashi and Matsumae on the Oiwake Soran Line.
Highlights Katsuyama Castle Ruins
Tourist Information Kaminokuni Tourist Association (上ノ国町観光協会): Tel 0139-55-3955 / Inside the Michi-no-eki Kaminokuni Monju, 3 Harauta / 9am-7.30pm, to 6.30pm Nov-Mar / www.kaminokuni.com
Kaminokuni’s few Medieval Age buildings and heritages are scattered along Route 228. A discounted combination ticket (共通券: kyotsu-ken: ¥400) is available for the Old Sasanami House and the Katsuyama Castle Ruins Guidance Facility. Both are closed in winter.
01 CASTLE & LOCAL HISTORY
Katsuyama Castle Ruins
勝山館跡 / Katsuyama-date-ato / 24hrs / FREE
Originally constructed around 1470 by Takeda Nobuhiro, Katsuyama-date was Hokkaido’s represented medieval castle halfway up Io-zan (夷王山: 159m). Interestingly both Japanese and Ainu lived here until the late 16th-century. There are no historic buildings today, but it provides dramatic views of the town.
The Katsuyama Castle Guidance Facility (勝山館跡ガイダンス施設: 10am-4pm 4th Sat of Apr-2nd Sun of Nov / Closed Mon / ¥200) displays finds from local castles and reconstructed models.
02 HISTORIC BUILDING
Old Sasanami House
旧笹波家住宅 / 236 Kaminokuni / 10am-4pm 4th Sat of Apr-2nd Sun of Nov / Closed Mon / ¥300
Hokkaido’s oldest house existing built in the early 19th-century, the Sasanami family was a fishermen’s boss of Kaminokuni. The adjoining 1848 storehouse has historical exhibits.
上国寺 / 416 Katsuyama / Dawn-dusk / FREE
Jokoku-ji, established in 1443, is Hokkaido’s oldest temple building constructed in 1757. If you want to see inside, ask for staff.
上ノ國八幡宮 / 238 Kaminokuni / Dawn-dusk / FREE
Established in 1473 by Takeda Nobuhiro, it has one of Hokkaido’s oldest shrine buildings constructed in 1699 inside the sheltering hall (unfortunately it is not open to the public).
花沢温泉 / 161 Katsuyama / 10am-9pm / Closed Tue & New Year’s holiday / ¥200
Renewed in 2017, this modern public onsen near the Amano-gawa has pleasant indoor and open-air baths. Admission is only ¥200! You can sample hot spring water. It is a 10-minute walk east of Kaminokuni bus stop.
Central Kaminokuni has two main bus stops:
Kaminokuni (上ノ国): On Route 228 (Oiwake Soran Line) near Jokoku-ji. It is connected with Esashi Terminal (11min) and Haraguchi Gyoko-mae (40min) in Northern Matsumae.
Odome (大留): There are six buses daily link with JR Kikonai Station (70min) on the Hokkaido Shinkansen and Esashi Nakauta-cho (中歌町: 23min). About 2km east of Jokoku-ji.